Ever wondered what the numbers on your sewing machine needles mean? These numbers are more than just random figures—they're crucial for your sewing projects.
So let's look deeper at what those numbers mean and how they can make your sewing experience sooooo much smoother.
The Two Numbers Explained
When you buy sewing machine needles, you'll notice two numbers, like 90/14 or 100/16. These numbers represent different sizing systems.
The first number, such as 80 or 90, follows the metric system commonly used in Europe. For instance, a size 80 needle is 0.8 mm in diameter.
The second number, like 12 or 14, is the American system, first adopted in Asia and, it seems (following a bit of sleuthing) by Singer.
Here’s how the metric system correlates with the needle's diameter:
- A size 80 needle (80/12) has an 0.8 mm diameter;
- A size 90 needle (90/14) has a 0.9 mm diameter;
- A size 75 needle (75/11) has a 0.75 mm diameter.
The Anatomy of the Needle
The needle has several parts, each serving a specific function. The main parts, for our purposes here, are:
Where to Find the Numbers
These numbers are etched on the shank of the needle, the thicker part at the top.
Unless you are 8 years old, it might be rather hard to see those numbers with the naked eye, so I'd recommend using a magnifying glass or your phone's camera to zoom in (or take a photo of the numbers and expand the photo). Or indeed, ask your local friendly 8 year old.
Understanding these numbers helps you choose the right needle for your fabric and thread, which brings me nicely onto....
Choosing the Right Needle for Your Fabric
Needles come in various sizes, starting from 60/8 and going right up to 130/21.
Here's how they correlate with fabric types:
- Fine Needles (60/8 to 75/11): Ideal for delicate fabrics like silk, nylon or light cottons such as cotton lawn
- Medium Needles (80/12 to 90/14): Perfect for mediumweight fabrics like quilting weight (medium weight) cotton, poplin cotton and jersey. Cotton drill (which you’d use to make aprons with) would use a 90/14.
- Thick Needles (100/16 to 130/21): Best for heavy fabrics such as denim, canvas, and upholstery materials.
Choosing the Right Needle for Your Project
Selecting the correct needle size for your project is essential.
For example, if you're sewing two layers of medium weight cotton, an 80/12 needle is perfect. However, if your project involves multiple layers, like bag handles, you should switch up to a thicker needle, such as 100/16, even if you are using a medium weight cotton. This will avoid your needle breaking and ensure smooth stitching, and no skipped stitches.
When you are quilting, you are stitching through multiple layers, so you will need to increase your needle size to 90/14. A sure sign of this is when your machine keeps skipping stitches, the thread breaks or your needle unthreads itself.
Preventing Needle Breakage and Thread Issues
Your needle size should also match your thread thickness.
If your needle is too fine for the fabric, it can break or struggle to penetrate the material so you will need to move up a needle size or two.
For thicker threads used in appliqué, opt for a larger needle size to accommodate the thread and prevent your thread shredding.
However, if you notice large holes in your fabric, it indicates that your needle is too big, and you should switch down to a smaller size.
Needle Maintenance
Remember to change your needle after every eight hours of stitching or at the start of a new project, whichever comes first.
Needles can become bent or blunt over time, even though you may not notice or see it, affecting your sewing quality.
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Understanding how needle sizes work and then using them accordingly can make a huge difference to your stitching.
And yes, that will sometimes mean swapping your needle a few times during a project so that you are always using the correct needle size. So this is definitely a bit of knowledge to have under your (sewing) belt.
I hope this helps.
Kim
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